Monday, 11 May 2009

Decanter New World Fine Wine Tasting: Grand Tasting

On Saturday, I attended the Decanter Magazine New World Fine Wine event in London, courtesy of publisher Sophia Dempsey. I attended both the Grand Tasting and the South American Wines Masterclass lead by Peter Richards.

I chose to use the Grand Tasting as an overview, tasting from a few tables from each of the represented regions: USA, New Zealand, Australia, South Africa and South America. In the end, I tasted from 10 wineries but I enjoyed the depth rather than breadth of my approach.

A few highlights include the 2007 Ken Forrester (Stellenbosch, South Africa) FMC, Forrester Meinert Chenin Blanc (£18). The slightly off-dry start lead to a floral after taste with incredible length. It also helps with the wine maker is pouring for you in a checkered shirt and brightly-coloured bow tie, enthusiastically waxing poetic on his trade.

I also thoroughly enjoyed the 2008 Cloof Wine Estate (Darling, South Africa) Crucible Shiraz (£30). It was at this booth that I bumped elbows with Oz Clarke, after my tasting companion exclaimed, slightly too loudly, "Oh my God, it's Oz Clarke!" I started looking around for him 10 feet away, not assuming he was literally standing next to me. We felt proud of ourselves for independently choosing a booth that he wanted to taste at, and proceeded to spend the next 10 minutes eavesdropping on his conversation with the pourer. It turns out he has visited this particular winery, but hey, it's still a good recommendation!

Another honourable mention goes to the 2005 Vasse Felix (Margaret River, Western Australia) Heytesbury Cabernet Sauvignon (£30s). The strong berry flavours were still bright, with a tannin structure to keep it all in line without overpowering the fruit. This is drinkable now, but should continue to age well another 5 years.

Two more mentions go to the 2008 Saint Clair Pioneer Block 7, Berry Block Sauvignon Blanc (£15) which is exactly what an NZ Sauv Blanc should taste like and the NV Domain Ste Michelle (Washington & Oregon, USA) Blanc de Noirs (£11) whose clean, fresh strawberry fruit calls for summer sunshine and comfy patio furniture.

I did taste a few duds, and I was stumped by a white wine by Domaine Serene (Oregon, USA) which is actually made from 100% Pinot Noir. They call it Coeur Blanc and although tasty, seems rather too much of a gimmick perhaps.

Overall, it was an excellent event with interesting wines and a nice representation, although small, of what the New World is producing. But lest I complain, I remind myself that I am going to the London International Wine Fair this week. With over 25,000 wines to taste, I don't care how much I spit; I may be stumbling home.

Friday, 8 May 2009

A few whites to spark a train of thought

On a recent visit to Vinoteca near Farringdon, I had two interesting whites: 2007 Kamptal Gruner Vetliner 'Lois', Loimer, Austria and the 2007 Colli Piacentini Malvasia 'Tasto di Seta', Castello di Luzzano, Italy.

I enjoy trying Gruner Vetliner whenever it's offered at trusted establishments. They have the right balance of acidity and aromatics that goes well with any food, but they are equally enjoyable on their own. This one was reminiscent of Pinot Gris, but a "good" Pinot Gris, not the pub swill on offer by the glass.

The Malvasia was even more interesting, with more length to it and stronger floral on the nose. I partly ordered it because my drinking companion had turned up her nose to it, not wanting an Italian white, and declaring that she couldn't stand Pinot Grigio (not that this had any similarity to one). I have to admit, I do have a Pinot Grigio aversion, no matter where it's grown, but it's comments like these that make me want to get in people's heads and taste buds and try to figure out what they are are actually tasting (i.e. why they don't like a certain wine).

I had another friend recently confuse acidity and tannin at a recent tasting, which is a classic example of how, if you don't have the basic terminology sorted, you will not only confuse other people but you have less of a chance to find out what you actually like, and why. I suppose this is why I have an interest in wine education and leading tastings. I am on a personal mission to help people understand what they are drinking, so that they will have more positive experiences in the future trying and buying new wines.

Sunday, 3 May 2009

Wine Clubs

I was asked today about the options for "wine of the month" type clubs by an American who has moved to London. After giving it some thought, I realised that the predominant wine clubs in the UK are of the wine-by-the-case variety, and are usually offered by an already established retailed such as Sainsbury's Nectar Wine Club, Waitrose Wine Direct , or Majestic Wine Warehouse.

The model for these retailers are typically to send you a case of mixed wine once each quarter. The emphasis is on seasonally-relevant wines (i.e. rose in summer, heavier reds in winter), good value (£4-6 per bottle), and usually from larger, yet often unknown, producers.

I have always preferred ordering my own mixed cases from Waitrose or Virgin Wines, and I particularly like the Virgin Wine method of offering a Wine Bank, where £20 is debited from your checking account each month and then whenever you choose to purchase wine, you use your pre-paid credit. They were also very flexible with me when I went travelling 8 months ago, freezing my direct debit, but maintaining my credit for whenever I returned to the UK.

I am wondering what other UK wine club options there are. I will research this further and post about my findings, but in the meantime, if anyone knows of a higher-end, smaller-quantity wine club, please let me know by posting a comment!

Saturday, 18 April 2009

April Wine in Revew

Being back in San Francisco for a week and seeing friends socially all month longth means that I have had the opportunity to taste several new wines this month. I will use this post as a catch-all for some of the more notable or interesting finds.

Friday, 10 April 2009

Vino Mexicano

When you think of Mexico, you probably think those Corona commercials or spring break trips to Cancun before you think of a glass of fine wine. Me too! But on a recent visit to Ensenada in Baja, Mexico I visited two vineyards in the Guadalupe Valley region, both demonstrating the breadth and quality that this region can produce.

The area’s Mediterranean climate allows several varietals to thrive, including Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Grenache, and the list goes on. Mexico only produces a few million cases each year, with about half of that coming from L.A. Cetto, a Guadalupe Valley mega-producer. L.A. Cetto (pronounced “la chetto”) experiments with 67 varietals, presumably still trying to find the perfect grapes for the soil and climate.

Wine isn’t as new to Mexico as you might presume. Vineyards werefirst planted by Spanish missionaries in the late 1500s, although it wasn’t until the 1800s that the Guadalupe Valley area was planted with the capability for sizeable production. The industry has boomed in recent years, although it is still trying to find its way onto the global wine map. Recently, there was a Wines of Baja tasting held in San Francisco, so the word is spreading fast, but the region needs to overcome significant geographical and historical prejudice before the wine world starts to take them seriously.

I tasted at L.A. Cetto and Casa Pedro Domecq, whose tasting rooms are just down the road from each other, only a 30 minute drive from Ensenada. Tasting fees are low ($3-5) and the ranges I tasted were surprising. Domecq’s tasting offerings illustrate how the lack of local wine regulation encourages experimentation, as I tasted a Chenin Blanc/Chardonnay blend, a Grenache Rose, and a Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo blend. None of them were outstanding, but the majority of them were quite good, and I even bought the bottle of Chateau Domecq as a souvenir wine (which paired well with marinated and barbequed tri-tip over the weekend).

L.A. Cetto offers more single varietals, such as a pleasing Viognier, a food-friendly oaked Chardonnay, a very good Bordeaux blend, and a well-balanced Cabernet Sauvignon Rose. Both vineyards provide tours of the facility and have modern and spacious tasting rooms. It would be interesting to have had time to visit more boutique wineries, which I imagine would involve a lot of knocking on doors to have a taste rather than rocking up during any established and well-organised tasting hours.

NZ wine tasting stats

I spent a three hour train ride from Sacramento to San Jose this week updating my wine tasting spreadsheet with all my notes and ratings from my New Zealand trip. I thought I would share some interesting statistics about what I tasted:
  • Over the course of two months, I tasted (and wrote notes) on nearly 250 New Zealand wines, representing over 50 different wineries. Most of these were either at wine festivals or on wine tasting tours, but I did jot down tasting notes whenever I could at a restaurant or bar as well.
  • Of the wines tasted, the greatest majority were Pinot Noir (65), then Riesling (35), Sauvignon Blanc (30) and smaller quantities of other varietals such as Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, and red single varietal or blends. These numbers reflect my taste more than the actual ratios of NZ wine production, but of course, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc are what have given NZ it's international reputation.
  • My scoring distribution is divided as follows: I gave 12% an "excellent", 35% "very good", 36% "good" and 17% either an OK, non-rated, or bad (as in there is something actually wrong with the wine). I haven't decided yet if these ratings are perhaps too generous or a fair distribution. It's not fair to re-rate in hingsight, but if I was on the fence (good/very good) I gave it the lower rating when entering the scores.
  • I tasted in all the major wine regions, including Auckland (Waiheke Island), Hawke's Bay, Martinborough, Marlborough, Nelson, and Central Otago. The only wine region I didn't explore much was Gisborne, on the north island. Since they are known mostly for their Chardonnay, it wasn't a high priority for me.

I will post more on specific regions and wineries, but in the meantime, feel free to ask me any questions about a specific wine you may have seen in your supermarket or wine store. There is a good chance I can tell you what it tastes like before you decide to buy it!

Thursday, 2 April 2009

Revisiting California Pinot Noir and...a Conundrum

After a few months of tasting Pinot Noir across New Zealand, I came home to discover a few California Pinots in my cellar that I bought a few years ago. The first is 2004 Etude Carneros and the second is 2005 Baker Lane, Sonoma Coast, Hurst Vineyard. I remember buying the Baker Lane after reading a stellar review about it on vinography. I wasn't sure how long to keep them, but curious to open at least one of them, I brought the Baker Lane on my Ensenada cruise last weekend.

We opened the bottle on Sunday night, and it was definitely the best of the three bottles we brought (2004 Jordan Cabernet Sauvignon and Caymus Conundrum* being the other two). The aromas were black cherry, jammy, and bright berries. It was definitely ready to drink and paired excellently with my mushroom soup starter and my norwegian salmon main. Everyone at the table loved it, and I was glad I had saved it for a semi-special occasion.

To close the gap in my cellar, I also purchased an Etude Carneros Pinot Noir from '05 so that I can do a vertical tasting with the '04/'05 at a later date.

*I've had two Caymus Conundrums in the past week - a 2007 and a 2006. Both vintages teetered on the edge of an off-dry riesling more than the predominant Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Viognier blends that I recognise from previous years. The website indicates that the blend of grapes is still true to its roots, but maybe there is more Muscat in recent vintages to give it the higher sugar content? Either way, I still thoroughly enjoy this wine, and consistently find it to be a crowd-pleaser and to pair with a variety of foods. I trust Caymus on this one, but I am still really curious to know what's inside the bottle!

Wednesday, 1 April 2009

My Top 4 NZ wines

It would be impossible to sum up my New Zealand wine experience in one post, so I will write several posts over the next month to focus on different topics. I suppose the best way to tell which wines I was most impressed by is to know which wines I actually chose to purchase and bring back to the US with me.

I (mostly) restrained from buying bottles until the very end of my two month trip. Bottles I bought along the way were consumed along the way or given as gifts. In the end, I only brought back reds with me, the main logic being that reds are the wines you cellar and age, and that's what I wanted to do with my purchases. It's harder to get as excited about a white wine, even though I did discover some fantastic ones in the form of off-dry Rieslings and of course Sauvignon Blancs.

Here are the four wines I purchased, and a bit of background as to how I discovered and chose this particular wine:

2007 Mt. Difficulty Pipeclay Terrace Pinot Noir: The bouquet has strong floral notes (dark red roses and lilac according to the vineyard), with dry dirt, earthiness and hints of chocolate. All very impressive flavours for a young Pinot Noir. In fact, I don't think I need to hold on to this one for more than a few years. It will be in the category of ready to drink when I am ready to drink it.

I tasted this wine at Wine Taste in Queenstown, one of those wine dispenser tasting stores that can be a great substitute for visiting the vineyards themselves. I did taste in Central Otago, but only in the Gibbston Valley area, just outside Queenstown. After looking forward to Central Otago Pinots my entire trip, I was disappointed with the Pinots I had at Gibbston Valley Vineyard, Waitiri Creek, Chard Farm and Amisfield. They were good, but not great. Mt. Difficulty is farther east in the Bannockburn area, where prestigious wineries such as Felton Road and Akarua are based.

Price: $90 NZD in country ($53 USD or 36 GBP equivalent). International distributors here.

2007 Nautilus Four Barriques Pinot Noir: I first tasted this wine at the 2009 Marlborough Wine Festival in Blenheim at the Nautilus booth. It was the only wine that day that I purchased a second tasting of and in a full glass size. I thought my enthusiasm for the wine might just be the wine talking until I tasted it again first thing the next morning at the vineyard itself. It was just as good, with raspberry flavours and oak or cedar spice. A terrifically well-balanced wine, it was on my favourites list.

Both events were only halfway through my trip, so I wasn't able to purchase and carry the bottle with me at the time. When I was making my final wine decisions during my last week, this wine still came back to me, so I had my friend, Annette, ship it to me. Oddly enough, she is renting a room in Blenheim from the marketing director of Nautilus, so it was fairly easy for her to procure a bottle and ship it to my hostel in Christchurch only a few days before I left the country.

Price: $60 NZD in country ($35 USD or 24 GBP equivalent). This wine is not distributed outside New Zealand, however Nautilus also makes a very good Sauvignon Blanc and regular Pinot Noir. International distributors here.

2006 Ata Rangi Celebre: This is a 50% Merlot, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon with excellent white pepper and tobacco reminiscent of Northern Rhone Syrahs. Fruit flavours of dark plum and bright berries round out a fantastic wine to pair with steak or rich sauce pastas.

I drank this wine quite a bit during my stay, first at the vineyard in Martinborough where I purchased a bottle, then later on that night when I shared the bottle with fellow wine travellers, again at dinner with a friend in Queenstown and finally at Wine Tastes, just to confirm my choice. At $32 NZD retail, it is a good value and very enjoyable. See reviews from well-known wine critics here. I have also enjoyedthe 2007 Ata Rangi's Crimson Pinot Noir.

Price: $32NZD in country ($19 USD or 13 GBP equivalent). International distributors here.

2004 Alpha Domus "The Navigator": A Bordeaux-style blend from Hawke's Bay on the North Island, the Navigator is well-structured but drinkable now. It contains Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec. As published in Hawke's Bay Today Sip of the Week: "It's almost a crime to have this wine shut away in a bottle - there should be enormous open vats of it out in the public spaces for us to all swim around in."

I tried this wine at the vineyard at the 2009 Hawke's Bay Wine Festival, noting that it was excellent (as was the similar "Aviator" although at a $45NZD price tag). I was pleasantly surprised to find it during my last week in the country, and I look forward to opening this in the near future (I don't think I can wait!)

Price: $25 NZD in country ($15 USD or 10 GBP equivalent). International distributors here.

Thursday, 16 October 2008

London Wine Bars

I have always been discouraged at finding good wine bars in London. But since I'll be leaving London for awhile, I think it's appropriate to collate a list of the wine bars that I do enjoy and respect.

Gordon's Wine Bar
- famed for being the oldest wine bar in London, Gordon's has ambiance (underground brick cellar), good wines and always a packed crowd. It's centrally located between Embankment and Charing Cross and a great place to meet someone for a first date where the guy might be a dud, but the wine will make up for it!

Cork & Bottle - Surprisingly located in touristy Leicester square, the Cork & Bottle even more surprisingly is down a spiral staircase next to a sex shop. It doesn't offer a full menu of food, but does have tasty selections of cheeses and other nibbles. The wines-by-the-glass menu is posted on chalkboards around the main bar and it always provides a range of classics and interesting wines to try. The wines by the bottle menu is geographically organised and has a fantastic variety of wines. This is a great place for 2-4 people, especially if you can get the nook under the curved brick-cellar style ceiling. Because of it's convenient location, I've often stopped in after a show and usually can get a table. It's very cosy, so great for the winter months to settle in with a bottle and good conversation with friends.

Vinoteca - I love this place. I recently discovered it with a friend in August and have been back three times since then. It's first and foremost a wine bar, with intriguing wines by the glass (such as Navarra Garnacha Rose and Chilean Carmenere). The wines by the bottle list is extensive and affordable and all wines can be purchased to take home since it's a wine shop as well!). Secondly, it's a great restaurant with wine suggestions paired with every course. The ambiance is casual, with wood floors, tables and chairs in a small dining area. Located in Barbican/Farringdon, it's convenient to get to from Farringdon tube and there are several other excellent bars and restaurants in the area for starting or ending the night.

Bedales, Borough Market - Another well-designed wine bar/wine shop, Bedales is centrally located at London Bridge in Borough Market. The wines by the glass list is short but with appropriate selection. The best feature is that you can buy any bottle in the shop and drink it onsite for only 8 GBP more. This is a great value way to try a bottle of red over a cheese or charcuterie plate. There is bar stool seating in the main area, outdoor seating with old barrels as tables and additional seating downstairs, so there is generally room to squeeze a few more people in.

The Providores and Tapa Room - The Tapa Room is a New Zealand wine bar and tapas-style restaurant on ground floor the cozy location on the Marylebone High Street. Although on the pricey side for a meal, it's a great place to try NZ wines and chat and drink over a few tapas as a snack. The venue is very small and does fill up fast, so best to arrive on the early or late side. I haven't tried the first floor restaurant, The Providores, but I reckon that it would be fantastic.

Spirit tasting

I have so much wine blogging to catch up on, that I thought I'd start with the easy topic. During a recent wine tasting course, we studied and tasted spirits - vodka, rum, gin, cognac, sherry, etc. Throughout the wine topic portions of the course, I had been rather pleased with myself and my previous knowledge gleaned from hands on tasting experience, paying attention to what I drink and lots of wine reading. For instance, I know that a Chablis is actually Chardonnay (duh!), but I had wondered how the course would feel for someone who doesn't know too much about wine to start with. After doing the spirits portion, now I know.

I felt the awe of realising how little I knew about the distillation process or how you could actually make alcohol out of nearly everything it seems (fruit, potatoes, barley, etc). I also realised how little I knew about how vodka differs from gin, for example (very little is seems. Gin isn't much more than flavoured vodka where the predominant flavour must be juniper berries). And then, on the test, I probably got most of the spirit-related questions wrong. I couldn't remember the colour of reposado tequila, or which ingredient was the basis of rum.

All of this on my wine blog is to say that it's true that the more you learn about something, the less you realise you actually know. For now though, I'll stick to the topics I already have a head start on...